The Megalithic Landscapes of the Plain of Jars in Laos

The Plain of Jars is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Laos that is hard to get to but definitely well worth the effort. When I planned our twelve-day trip, I was more excited to see the Plain of Jars than almost anywhere else, because I think a trip to Laos would not be complete without visiting the megalithic landscapes of the thousands of Jars strewn throughout the province of Xieng Khuang’s plateau.

The Plain of Jars – Site 3
The Plain of Jars
The Plain of Jars

These mysterious jars date back to 500 BC. They remained secret to the world until their re-discovery in the 1930s, when Madelaine Colani, a French geologist and archaeologist, surveyed the area for the École Française d’Extrême-Orient, a French institute dedicated to the study of Asian civilizations. Based on excavated evidence, Colani believes that these ancient sites reveal the funerary practices of an extensive and powerful Iron Age culture. Furthermore, she believes that this site was on a trade route that went as far as northern India since there have been similar jars found in this area, and in the Pyu cities of Myanmar because stone urns have also been found there. Nevertheless, not much is known about the people who created them.

The Plain of Jars – Site 2
The megalithic landscapes of the Plain of Jars is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Plain of Jars has not yet gained worldwide fame due to its location and the vast number of unexploded mines and bombs that still litter the area. At present, there are 106 jar sites; however, only 11 sites are cleared of unexploded bombs and safe for tourists to visit. Because there are so many UXOs to clear, a significant portion of them will remain off-limits to the public for many years, leaving everyone hoping to glimpse a mystery world that is still tucked away in the hills, just as the jars themselves remain mysterious.

With my son at the Plain of Jars – Site 1
The Plain of Jars
The Plain of Jars

During this trip, we visited three jar sites: 1, 2, and 3, and they are quite different from each other.

Jar Site One: It is the biggest, most accessible, and most visited site. It has a visitor center and provides free shuttle service to the jars perched on a small hill. It was quite surreal to see the first jar sitting on a plain that had been there for about 2,000 years. While walking up and down the hill, we noticed that Jar Site 1 contains some intriguing features: the biggest jar (which is thought to weigh over 10 tons and is about three meters tall), jars with lids, jars with carvings, a large cave that is thought to be an ancient crematorium, some bomb craters, and some jars being damaged by the bombs.

The Plain of Jars – Site 1
The Plain of Jars – Site 1
The Plain of Jars – Site 1
ancient cave in Site 1

Jar Site Two: In order to see more jars, we went to the woods. There was something different about these jars in the woods—they felt more dramatic, private, and secretive. We saw that the roots have caused damage to many of the jars, and some have completely split in two, indicating that nature and time have taken their toll on this place. From the woods, we climbed up the small hill on the other side to see some jars that overlooked breathtaking views of the plains below. 

The Plain of Jars – Site 2
The Plain of Jars – Site 2
The Plain of Jars – Site 2
The Plain of Jars – Site 2

Jar Site Three: This site is quite different from sites 1 and 2, as we had to walk through Laotian rice fields and a bamboo bridge for approximately 10 minutes to get to the jars. The rice fields were barren since it wasn’t planting season when we visited in December last year. The jars are far from the roads and houses, so you get the impression that they are truly hidden away. Here, the jars are set in a small cluster of trees and vary in size, with some being significantly wider than others and some being taller still. As we roamed around, we saw the effects of the bombs, with several jars being broken and blown in half.

The Plain of Jars – Site 3
The Plain of Jars – Site 3
Crossing the wooden bridge to get to Jar Site 3
Walking through the Laotian rice fields in order to get Jar Site 3

It is rare, and it was great that we could touch and get close to the plain of jars, which is one of the most incredible historical landmarks in the world. In Jar Site 1, there were very few people when we went there, but in Sites 2 and 3, we had the place to ourselves — no other tourists, no locals, just us and the jars. Although it’s wonderful that people can view these amazing artifacts so freely, I think there is a need for some control to be implemented to preserve them in the future. As this place grows in popularity, more people will visit, and if they are not protected, they risk being lost to future generations. My husband used to tell stories about how he could touch and get close to the megalithic standing stones in Carnac, Bretagne, France. And when he took me there 10 years ago, we couldn’t even come close. Now, they are protected by fences.

The Plain of Jars
The Plain of Jars
The Plain of Jars

While visiting the Plain of Jars, we saw numerous bomb craters from the American bombing campaign, which left Laos as the most heavily bombed country in world history. It’s an eye-opening experience to realize the full effects of war and how the hundreds of thousands of unexploded bombs continue to impact daily life in this underdeveloped nation. In addition, we also visited the Russian tank, Ban Napia-war spoon village, and the tourist information center.

A bomb crater at Site 1
A bomb crater at Site 1
The Russian Tank
Ban Napia – war spoon village

We had an awesome and authentic experience when we explored the Plain of Jars. This is an absolutely remarkable testimony to the civilization that made and used jars in the Iron Age. The Plain of Jars is somewhat off the typical traveler’s route in Laos, so it was not easy to get there, and there were few transportation services available, which made our trip feel like a journey into unknown territory. In spite of the danger and awful bus ride, I think seeing the Plain of Jars was worth it! It’s amazing, especially if you love history!

The Plain of Jars
The Plain of Jars

Little Lilly Travel Tips:

1. The Mines Advisory Group has put little stone markers with the word “MAG” on them to show where it is safe to walk. Do not step outside of them, as you could be injured or killed by unexploded bombs and mines.

2. Where to stay – The best place to stay in Xieng Khuang is in Phonsovan district as it has many decent hotels and restaurants. It’s 1200 meters above sea level, so it’s very cold. We stayed at Sipanya Guesthouse, which is quiet, roomy, and furnished with nice, basic furnishings. The staff is also helpful and kind.

3. How to get there – We left Luang Prabang at 8.30am, and there was no train or plane available, so the only means of transportation to Phonsovan, Xieng Khuang, was by bus. Actually, it was more like a minivan ride with a lot of people inside. We traveled through extremely windy, bumpy, and dusty mountain roads for approximately ten hours (one way) with only one stop (lunch and bathroom break). Otherwise, there’s a flight available from Vientiane to Xieng Khuang.  

8 thoughts on “The Megalithic Landscapes of the Plain of Jars in Laos

  1. As if I was also there while reading your adventure with these magnificent, mysterious jars. I didn’t know there’s these enthralled wonders in Laos. I was transported!!!

    • These mysterious stone jars are worth the trek. And what makes it even more memorable are the very long rides from Luang Prabang to Phonsavan (where the jars are located) to Vang Vieng. 

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