Last year, we headed to Koh Kong, and gladly chose to stay at Canvas & Orchids Retreat formerly known as the 4 Rivers Floating Lodge. It’s a perfectly tranquil oasis situated in the heart of Cardamom Cambodian rainforest at Koh Andet, Tatai. It’s off the beaten path, with untouched virgin forest, rare orchids, stunning colors, a chorus of birdsong as the sun rises, and beautiful jungle creatures. Canvas & Orchids Retreat combines the luxury of a four-star eco-friendly boutique resort with privacy, luxury, and exclusivity, perfumed with an air of peace and solitude.
It was quite a long journey—about five hours—to get there from Phnom Penh by taxi, but it was really worth it. The Canvas and Orchids Retreat was just what we wanted. By the time we reached Koh Kong, we were ready to relax and were excited to stay here. We were transferred by boat for about 15–20 minutes down the Tatai River from where our car had dropped us off, and the further down the river we went, the more idyllic the setting became.
We were greeted with a homemade cocktail the moment we stepped into the resort. Our tent was enormous and brilliant, and was built inland because there were no available floating tents at the time. There was a large, comfortable double bed inside the tent, as well as a TV, a DVD player (with DVDs available at the reception), a bedroom with two single beds, a couch with chairs and table, and a large en suite bathroom with a shower tub and LPG-heated water. Outside the tent was a huge terrace with two sunbeds, a parasol, two chairs with a small table, and a hammock for outdoor relaxation.
The ethos of Canvas & Orchids Retreat, which strives to be as environmentally friendly as possible and has an impressive focus on sustainability, was encouraging. We noticed that every detail had been carefully considered, and the staff had thoroughly explained it to us. I loved the details explaining the provenance of many of the items in our room and the overall message that they try to really pull together to upcycle, recycle, and protect the environment. They also do a lot to support their local youth and communities.
The tent was serviced daily to good effect. We liked how they recycled glass bottles and stored them in the refrigerator with filtered water. They replenished our filtered water supply every day to ensure we always had enough fresh water. Also, we particularly appreciated “the flask fairy”, who left a flask of boiling water for making hot drinks and freshly baked cookies and biscuits on the deck at dawn so we could watch the sunrise over the river and the forest, listen to the sweet melodies of birds, and savor the serenity of the surroundings while enjoying a hot drink. Is there a better way to start the day?
The restaurant or open-plan kitchen provides an array of freshly prepared food, both local and ‘western’ dishes, throughout the day. Everything we ate was excellent. The food was well prepared, delicious, well priced, and some of the best that we had in Cambodia. You can choose from a 4-course set menu, or there is an A La Carte one too. They provided us with filtered water at no extra cost! The bar is well stocked and makes great cocktails made with flair and love.
Canvas & Orchids Retreat offers a range of activities and interesting nature tours. During our three-night stay, we trekked into the jungle of the Cardamom Mountains, a mountain range that covers more than 4.4 million hectares of rainforest in southwestern Cambodia. It is one of the country’s great natural sites and one of Southeast Asia’s largest unfragmented rainforests. Everyone will find a hidden gem in this natural treasure trove, as there’s a chance to see 450 different bird species, as well as Sun bears and Asian elephants. Furthermore, there are towering waterfalls, mountain biking, kayaking, and treks to ecological and cultural sites for thrill seekers. It is home to about 250,000 people belonging to ethnic minorities, and it also houses endemic species and endangered wildlife, including gibbons, Siamese crocodiles, pangolins, and Sun Bears. In addition, every year, it produces a massive amount of water, supplying water to 16 hydro-power dams across the country, which generate an estimated 20% of Cambodia’s electricity.
Then, we took a day boat trip to Tatai Waterfall, which is situated amidst a lush jungle setting on the Tatai River. This large rocky cascade is quite impressive, as it flows all year with clear water and breathtaking scenery. During the dry season, it is possible to swim in the naturally formed pools at the bottom of the cascade and walk across the ledge. During the wet season, the river flows with all its might, and the waterfall is more spectacular, with the enraged white foamed waters running over a fall 4 meters long. We went there by boat from the resort and were taken to the lower section of the falls. Then we trekked through the jungle and up a rocky path to the waterfall’s top, where we relaxed in the water. Since it poured heavily the night before we went there, the pools were large and deep, perfect to dive into.
We also explored and kayaked around the island along Tatai River, which meanders through the Cardamom Mountains. It flows gently for the most part, belying its 20-meter depth, and in some places with a thunderous roar as the riverbed drops away to form cascading waterfalls. It is a superb place: rich in biodiversity, calm, peaceful, and ideal for boat or kayak trips. The Tatai River’s banks are teeming with wildlife, and wildlife watching on the Tatai River is a relaxing way to spend the day. As we kayaked down the river, we saw many calm stretches of water set deep among the mangroves. Certainly, adventures on the Tatai River are a great way to discover south-west Cambodia’s wild side, whether you enjoy kayaking, trekking, or simply absorbing the surrounding environment from your tent.
One night, before dinner, and when it was not raining, the resort treated us to a boat trip to watch the fireflies. It was our son’s first time seeing fireflies. Male fireflies use their flash to attract females, and each species has its own pattern of light blinking, with firefly light varying in color from yellow to orange to green. The sight of a hundred fireflies flickering and dancing through the night in a forest on the riverbank on a quiet, dark night is one of the most beautiful sights your eyes can withhold. Fireflies are, in fact, nature’s fireworks that can be enjoyed without causing pollution. These tiny creatures make the night even more beautiful and have truly captivated the imaginations of humans for centuries with their mesmerizing glow. We really appreciate the surreal and exquisite beauty of nature.
Moreover, we also went fishing at the pontoon, had a lazy day, and spent time relaxing in nature with a beautiful view from the tent.
It’s simply a tropical paradise where you can relax and do as much or as little as you wish with amazing, friendly, and helpful staff who couldn’t do enough to make our stay memorable, which it was! Our guide was funny and informative! When our 15 year old son asked for a fishing rod, it was perfectly supplied with fresh shrimp baits too. They provided all the guests with life vests during the boat trip, and you can use the kayaks free of charge. Everyone who works here cares passionately about this place and preserving nature.
We loved our four-day getaway at Canvas and Orchids Retreat, which is now one of our favorite places to stay in the kingdom. It certainly didn’t disappoint us from start to finish. The environment was serene, safe, and reliable. What an excellent timeout in a gem of a place in a tent, and we are absolutely looking forward to our next stay!
Little Lilly Travel Tips:
- Be careful of the leeches, because there are many in the river.
- Bring some mosquito spray, especially if you wish to hike through the forest.
Little Lilly Meets the World 