Hiking Trail: Circuit de Neiz Vran

Posted on September 24, 2023 by littlelilly

With its wonderfully diverse geography and abundance of adventurous activities, Brittany is a paradise for outdoor explorers. We enjoy taking walks or going on hikes while we’re in Brittany. The circuit de Neiz Vran was one of our favorite hiking trails because it follows a gentle route and offers a lovely blend of countryside and sea.

This beautiful loop trail has a 9.5 km length, a 133 m elevation gain, and a 25 m maxim altitude. It has three options to start the trail: (1) the parking lot behind the Neiz Vran campsite, marked number 1 on the map; (2) the Lanhir car park (Petit Paris), marked number 6 on the map; and (3) the parking lot of the SNSM of Boutrouilles, marked number 10 on the map. We took the first option.

trail map: Circuit Neiz Vran https://www.randokerlouan.fr/randokerlouan/sentiers-de-randonnees/neiz-vran.html

trail markers. https://www.randokerlouan.fr/randokerlouan/sentiers-de-randonnees/neiz-vran.html

In English, Neiz Vran means “The Crow’s Nest”, which is why the main trail markers are black. The black hatched up with white means for variations and shortcuts.

We started off the trail in the parking lot behind the Neiz Vran campsite, proceeded counterclockwise, and followed the coastal path. When the coastline was inaccessible, we walked along the sides of the road. We came back to the coastal path after walking 1.3 km. When we reached Poul Feunteun, we learned that fresh water was coming out of the buzzard on the beach. We then went by the covered Pors Huel walkway, which is home to the vestiges of prehistory that are only visible at low tide in Tresseny Cove. Along the way, we passed by a private property; however, we were still able to walk around and admire the migratory birds that land in the marshes.

As the trail led us further inland, we passed through a lively neighborhood known as “Petit Paris”. As we went on, we came across the buried fountain of Feunteun Zu, which has 24 steps down to reach the water. Our next stop on the trail was the Pagan Surf School, which is open from April to December. We then made our way to Boutrouille SNSM station, which has two boats for rescue and surveillance.

From the inland, we retreated into the coastline and came across Karreg Hir seaweed oven. This oven is part of the last remnants of the seaweed industry on the Kerlouan commune. From here, we can see Enez Amann Ar Rouz to the northwest, the lighthouse on the Virgin Islands to the west, and the entire coast all the way to Pontusval to the east. Although Enez Amann Ar Rouz (the island of Hamon le Roux) is privately owned, we were able to wander around and find amazing rocks. We learned that these rocks are more admirable in bad weather.

It was the ideal summertime stroll that took us two hours and twenty-five minutes. On a bright day, as we walked along the coastal path, we felt the cool summer breeze, heard the ocean waves crashing onto the rocks below, and smelled the salty sea air. We frequently had the chance to pause on the beaches, sit on a rock, and take in the scenery as we wondered how the world could be so breathtaking and beautiful! When we were done, we felt refreshed, and it was worth every step.

The Magnificent Mont Saint-Michel and its Beautiful Bay

Posted on December 1, 2022 by littlelilly

The Mont Saint-Michel is such a magical and interesting place that even seeing it from afar evokes feelings of awe. When my husband first took me there in July 2011, I was captivated by its incredible story. I must admit that seeing pictures of Mont Saint-Michel is fascinating, but experiencing it in person is jaw-dropping. So, without a doubt, we took our son to Mont Saint-Michel during our summer vacation in Bretagne this year to experience its enthralling beauty.

This foreboding-looking granite island protruding into the North Atlantic is located about half a mile off France’s Northwestern Normandy coastline. It rises 302 feet above sea level, is 247 acres in size, and is 3,150 feet in circumference. It is one of the most inspiring landmarks in France, Europe, and the world, and due to its historical and cultural significance, it was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. It is undoubtedly one of our favorite places in France.

When our son spotted Mont Saint-Michel from a distance, he was wowed! “Papa, why would anyone want to build anything on such an inhospitable piece of rock, constantly battered by the wind and waves of the North Atlantic?” As we walked from the parking lot to the entrance, my husband was happily explaining to him about the history and how it all began as a dream. It’s a majestic, spectacular sight when you’re walking down the path toward the island (cars aren’t allowed past a certain point), and you look up and see the island with the abbey and its magnificent cathedral crowning the top, rising above you, framed by the steel-blue sky of Normandy.

So, here are nine interesting facts why Mont Saint-Michel takes our breath away:

1. It started from a dream. According to the legend, Mont Saint-Michel was conceived in a dream in 708 when the archangel Michael appeared to bishop Aubert of Avranches and told him to build a church on the rocky islet. Bishop Aubert ignored him the first time and the second times, but when archangel appeared in his dream the third time, he took it seriously and began construction on the church. So, it started as a small church and evolved over the centuries into the magnificent abbey that we see today.

2.It is a Medieval Village with residents. Mont Saint-Michel is a treasure trove for history lovers, dating back to 709. As we entered through the main paved street, the “Grand Rue,” which was lined with around sixty charming old houses we were ecstatically startled. Then, we got lost in the medieval backstreets, and strolled along the ramparts that surrounded Mont Saint-Michel, which were built in the 14th and 15th centuries. The ramparts at the island’s base, made up of numerous towers, were built to keep the English forces out and provided a breathtaking view of the bay as well as an excellent location for viewing the wonderful show of the tide coming in. Then we made our way up to the Abbaye and explored every nook and cranny. We then went to the hidden La Chapelle-Saint-Aubert. And on our way out of the village, we stopped for ice cream while admiring the bay and waiting for our transfer to the parking area. Although Mont Saint-Michel is a small medieval village with less than fifty residents, it offers a lot of things to discover, including the Abbaye du Mont-Saint-Michel, Fortifications, Eglise Paroissiale Saint-Pierre, Tour du Nord (ramparts), Terrasse de l’Ouest, La Grande Rue, Tour Gabriel, La Porte du Roy, Maison de Bertrand du Guesclin, La Poste, and many more. Also, some of the fine buildings that line the steep village street are now converted into museums, restaurants, hotels and shops for today’s tourists. The village is also known for having the world’s most expensive omelet at La Mère Poulard.

3.The Magnificent Abbey. The Abbaye is our favorite part of Mont Saint-Michel. It has been a prestigious site since ancient times. The incredible Abbey’s 1300-year construction is a living testament to French history and culture. It is divided into two parts: the church-abbey and the Merveille. The Merveille, which means “The Wonder,” where the monk lived has three levels and was built over 25 years. The east side has three rooms: the chaplaincy, the hosts room and the dining hall. The west side has three rooms as well: the wine cellar, the Knights room and the cloister. One of the areas that we like there is the charming cloister with glass windows and a little garden in the middle, which was built at the top of the hill in the thirteenth century. It adds a surprising soft domestic touch to a dramatic setting with dramatic views. It encapsulates the enchantment of the whole place. Despite Mont’s turbulent history and the destruction of the earlier part of the church, the site and abbey remain intact. It is now a monument to the Christian past, preserved by a small monastic community. The buildings of the Abbey and its surrounding village have been meticulously maintained, restored, or renewed over time in accordance with their histories. For us, we think that your visit to Mont-Saint-Michel will be incomplete if you do not see the abbey. I’ve heard that not all tourists who visit the place get to explore the abbey because the climb up to the top is steep, narrow, and cobblestoned. Plus, there are also several flights of stairs that you need to climb.

4. A diversity of architectural styles. The beautiful Benedictine Abbey, built on a rocky island, is a striking example of a diversity of authentic architectural styles, an evidence of the mastery and expertise of several generations of builders, and a symbol of an undisputed technical and artistic feat. One of the areas that we liked is the church as it is where the Romanesque meets Gothic. The nave of the abbey church also shown a Romanesque architecture. The Merveille is a splendid illustration of the spirit of Gothic art that was popular throughout Western Europe at that time. Its bold architecture consists of three layered levels, culminating at a height of 35m, supported by sixteen powerful buttresses. The oldest part of the Abbey is Notre-Dame-sous-Terre, a small pre-Romanesque church with a double nave built-in granite masonry and flat brick. Furthermore, the architecture of the stone and timber-framed houses stacked in tiers surrounded by steep, rocky embarkments is beautiful and many of which are classified as historic landmarks.

5.It has served so many purposes

It was an important pilgrimage destination. Around the 10^th century, Mont Saint-Michel became one of the important pilgrimage destinations in Europe. Back then, the journey was very difficult as there was no bridge connecting the island to the mainland, so anyone who wanted to visit had to wait for the low tides to cross. Being able to complete this trip was a proof of your commitment to God.

It was an undefeated fortress. Mont Saint-Michel has become a symbol of French resilience because the English troops, in spite of a full-scale attack in 1433, were unable to conquer it during the Hundred Years War due to its strong fortifications and natural defense (tides and quicksand). It is a heavily fortified tidal island surrounded by water with strong high tides everywhere, making it difficult for the attackers to invade. Even at low tide, the area around is too sandy, and the surrounding quicksand trapped and drowned the English troops, making them easy targets for the French troops on Mont Saint-Michel.

It was once a prison. In the 17^th century, the king of France, Louis XIV, started using part of the island into a political prison. Also, in the 18^th century, during the French Revolution, the abbey got closed and converted into a prison known as “Bastille of the Sea” that held about 14,000 prisoners. The prison was closed in 1863 due to massive campaign by many influential figures, including Victor Hugo to restore the island and save this architectural treasure.

6.The beautiful bay, dangerous quicksand, and powerful tides. The tides at Mont Saint-Michel rise quickly and can reach almost 14 meters high, which is considered one of the largest tides in Europe. It is forbidden to cross the sand on your own, unless you are accompanied by a certified guide, because you might get trapped by quicksand and sink.

7.The wind is gravity-defying. Mont-Saint-Michel is very exposed to the sea winds as it is situated off the French coast right between Normandy and Brittany – two regions known in France for harsh winds and in general tough weather. During our visit on a windy summer day, we encountered a very fascinating phenomenon, as we saw water falling from the gutters.

8.It inspired so many movie castles. The Mont Saint-Michel is breathtaking to see in reality and has fascinated many people. Thus, it is no surprise that it was chosen as a wonderful inspiration for the castle of Rapunzel’s parents in Tangled, for Minas Tirith in The Lord of the Rings, and for Mickey, Donald, and Goofy: The Three Musketeers.

9.It is a top cultural attraction. Mont Saint-Michel is one of the most visited places in France. The residents welcome three million visitors each year, who are enchanted by the old roots of the monastery, the religious significance of this medieval masterpiece, and to see the extraordinary feat of medieval eclectic architecture. Who could blame anyone for wanting to visit this iconic island, with over one thousand years of history under its belt?

My family and I really enjoyed wandering around and spending time in that amazing place, just contemplating its beauty. Thus, I would like to end my post with this inspiring quote from American historian Henry Adams: “Church and State, Soul and Body, God and Man, are all one at Mont Saint-Michel.”

Little Lilly travel tips:

Wear comfortable walking shoes because the tour around Mont Saint-Michel is steep, and the path to venture up the abbey is full of stairs.
Bring a good jacket as it is quite windy there even during the summer.

Discovering the Devil’s Bridge in Lannilis

Posted on July 30, 2022 by littlelilly

After visiting some famous charming castles and very old, enormous churches, my family and I thought of heading to some off-the-beaten locations in order to go on adventures and enjoy discovering odd bits of history. So, we got in the car and started driving.

We were ecstatic to see a sign for the Devil’s Bridge (Pont-Krac’h / Pont du Diable) after navigating along those winding, narrow roads. This very old bridge, which spans a confined section of the Aber Wrac’h, is perched atop a sizable rock in the center of the riverbed. It is submerged by each incoming tide. It has seven vaulted tunnels – three on the Plougerneau side, two in the middle, and two small ones on the Lannilis side – that are spanned by the structure, which is 78 meters long and 5 to 6 meters wide.

The use of the site evolved over time. At the end of the Middle Ages (although some date the bridge back to the Iron Age), a passageway was made in the middle of the bridge to allow boats to get past. Then, at the start of the 19th century, a mill was constructed on the Plougerneau side, obstructing access. The bridge was eventually reopened to traffic in the middle of the 1850s, and locals continued to use it until 1960. It then became derelict, but it was restored in 2008. It is impressive to know that this medieval bridge is thought to have been around since the Roman era.

When we arrived, nobody was there. However, a few minutes later, an elderly couple and another family of three came. It was low tide then, so we were able to cross the bridge, and we leisurely strolled the nice forest on the other side.

It was a great escape, and it was wonderful to put down the electronics, unplug for a while, and just enjoy the moment. With no internet and no phone, we were disconnected from the outside world and fully savored our experiences. And the farther we got from the trail, the more thrilled and happier we were.

If you are in Bretagne/Brittany and looking for an adventure, and off-the-beaten path to wanderlust, Le Pont du Diable is for you!

Exploring the Château de Kérouzéré

Posted on July 25, 2022 by littlelilly

Beautiful Brittany in France is home to fairytale-like castles. Luckily for me, my husband and my son also enjoy exploring old buildings and architecture. So, one of our favorite things to do here is to go from one castle to the other, because there is truly something breathtakingly beautiful about castles and palaces. We like history, we admire architecture, and we enjoy looking at art. And in castles, it all comes together perfectly.

For us, visiting a castle is like stepping into another historical era. Every room has a story to tell and every stone has a tale to tell — a story of war and of peace; a story of honor and of romance, among other things. And many pieces on display also whisper their own secrets of a bygone era.

One of the castles that caught our attention was the magnificent feudal Chateau de Kerouzéré overlooking the countryside in Sibiril, in the northern Finistere of Brittany, which was built in Roman architecture in the late Middle Ages, or medieval era, in 1425. It was besieged in 1590 during the French Wars of Religion, and it was rebuilt around 1600. In 1883, it was listed as a historic monument, and it is one of the last castles in the region to be in very good condition.

We were on a group tour along with other European travelers, and our guide was excellent. He explained well the details of the castle. He told us that in three years time, the castle is going to celebrate its 600 years! The Chateau de Kérouzéré is magnificent!

Every castle is unique, and our visit to the castle of Kérouzéré was a fascinating escape. What are you waiting for? Push the door of Chateau de Kérouzéré if you are in the northern Finistere of Brittany; it is waiting for you to share some of its secrets and magnificence.

Little Lilly travel tips:

Entrance fees: 5 euros for 18+ years old, 3 euros for 10 to 18 years old and free for children under 10 years old.
People with mobility problems can only visit the ground. It is impossible to go up due to so many steep stairs.
The castle park can be visited free of charge all year round.
It is possible to visit the interior of the castle all year round and it is also possible to rent some rooms of the castle for special events like weddings. Here’s the castle website for more information: https://www.kerouzere.fr/Chateau_de_Kerouzer_1./Visites.html

The charming Chapelle du Grouanec

Posted on July 13, 2022 by littlelilly

It was a beautiful day with nice weather—sunny but breezy and chilly. So we decided to visit the Chapelle du Grouanec, a place we hadn’t seen before.

According to old documents, the chapel of Grouanec was built in 1503, and was dedicated to Our Lady. It was constructed in the Gothic style, and the chapel as a whole is magnificent— both the superb interior decorations and a lovely garden as well as a nice forest surrounding it.

It has a well-balanced and comprehensive chapel ensemble. A stunning stained-glass window that is located above the high altar gives the church’s interior its opulent feel. Along with other stained-glass windows and beautiful jewel-like paintings on panelings, there was also a frieze that was carved out of wood and painted. The holy fountain and the cavalry are all connected to the enclosure’s religious history. Also, its statuary offers a vivid palette of Breton sculptors’ work. Undeniably, the entire location exudes an alluring charm that permeates the chapel’s sanctuary. It goes without saying that it encourages the quiet pause that is secretly desired.

When we went there, they were preparing for a wedding. I really adored the wedding decoration – very simple, yet very classy and symbolic. Can you imagine exchanging vows in a centuries-old structure with a rich history?

If you are in the area, the 519-year-old Chapelle du Grouanec is one of the hidden little gems that we would highly recommend. It is definitely worth a visit!

The Rohan Bridge: A bridge inhabited for more than 500 years

Posted on July 9, 2022 by littlelilly

We explored the town of Landerneau, Bretagne, which has a remarkable architectural heritage. One of its architectural gems is the famed 70-meter-long Rohan bridge, which was built by Jean II de Rohan in 1510 (16th century), replacing a wooden structure dating back to the 12th century. For many years, it was the only way to cross the Elorn at Landerneau, which gave it strategic importance for trade.

This medieval bridge has six stone arches standing in saltwater. The buildings, which stand on granite piles, have been home to generations of wealthy artisans and linen merchants. It now has lively shops, restaurants, and cafes. So, up until now, it is one of Europe’s inhabited bridges, along with the iconic Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy. Another oddity of the Rohan Bridge is that beneath it, the Elorn River’s freshwater and the Atlantic Ocean’s saltwater both pass through the bridge, with a fascinating history to tell.

As we strolled along the banks of the river Elorn, we passed a succession of beautiful residences dating from the 16th to 19th centuries and nice gardens on the quaysides. Also, we saw some shops closed, due to the pandemic, and some people eating very peacefully on the pavements of restaurants.

If you enjoy searching out very old and quirky bits of history, this 512-year-old ancient inhabited bridge is for you! It’s a gentle beauty!

Little Lilly travel tip:

In the the summer, you can gently canoe down the Elorn.

A Visit at Saint-Goulven Church in Goulven

Posted on July 6, 2022 by littlelilly

After a leisurely lunch and a good nap, we hopped into the car and drove to Goulven to visit Eglise de Saint Goulven Church. It has stood since the 16th century, or roughly 450 years. It was constructed in the Gothic style and features a fabulous Renaissance bell tower adorned with four small towers. Everything is remarkable and finely decorated and beautiful to see both outside and inside.

As soon as we arrived in Goulven, we were greeted by the impressive and striking sight of the church’s huge bell tower, with a sharp spire dominating the whole town and even the vast bay which separates it from the peninsula of Plouneour-Trez. And we were astounded by the church’s enormous size as we walked around it. It is incredibly large for a town of only 449 inhabitants.

The stunning Renaissance bell tower of Saint-Goulven church

In the background, you can see baptismaux fonts where babies are baptized.

Stained-glass window depicting the life of Saint Goulven.

On the south side, a small old altar in the Gothic style of the 15th century.

A naive painting on the paneling of the north transept.

The beautiful organ gallery, work from the Flamboyant Gothic period.

An ossuary in the cemetery from 1707.

Saint-Goulven Church is truly emblematic of the parish enclosures. If you are in the area, do not hesitate to make a detour on this site. It’s worth a visit!

Little Lilly travel tip:

It is free.
The visit lasts at least an hour.

Perfect Afternoon Stroll at Meneham

Posted on June 29, 2022 by littlelilly

One of the places that we enjoyed the most in Finistère, north of Brest, Brittany, is Meneham. It spans 387.42 hectares and includes several beaches, a dunes strip, meadows, enormous boulders in evocative shapes, fabulous architecture, and an ancient village.

The lovely little authentic fishing village built in the 18th century is charming and quaint. The old coastguard house of Meneham is engulfed between two huge natural granite rocks and is stunning. The historical village behind is now perfectly restored into a village of thatched cottages that offers an ideal setting for family outings such as museums, exhibitions, entertainment, craftsmen’s workshops d’art, stopover lodges, and inns.

We climbed the boulders surrounding the old guardhouse, and the views were beautiful although the wind was cold. Then we walked down through the dunes and onto the most perfect beach! We spent plenty of time there, both at high tide and low tide. The walk on the nearby beaches is just breathtaking, with turquoise water, white sand, and a coastline here literally strewn with huge, house-sized granite rocks. Everywhere. At low tide, the boulders are out and both adults and kids can clamber onto them; they are really cool to explore and climb. The massive rocks make this location so unique in a rugged landscape.

After wandering about, you can always stop for a leisurely lunch at the restaurant there or a beer in the wooden bar.

This extraordinary natural site has been protected since 1975 and will surely delight both history enthusiasts and outdoor adventurers. It’s an intriguing and picturesque place with very quiet beaches and it has something for all the family. If you are in the area, it is worth a visit and a stroll.

Little Lilly travel tips:

It is free and quiet.
Wrap up warm if it’s breezy, as it’s quite open and breezy!
We usually spent at least an hour plus another hour leisurely walking on the nearby beaches.

France: Cairn de Barnenez, A window into the Past

Posted on May 1, 2020 by littlelilly

While we were in Bretagne for the whole summer break last year (2019), My husband and I decided to take our son to a wonderful archaeological outing at the Cairn de Barnenez in northern Finistere.